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Bunch Riding

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Riding in a bunch is one of the most important skills you can learn as a cyclist. Bunch riding can be the most enjoyable experience if done right, but it can also be dangerous (and not much fun) if people don’t understand the etiquette and rules.

The key advantage of bunch riding is it saves energy and enables you to ride at a higher speed. You can expend up to 30 per cent less energy by riding sheltered in a bunch! It is vitally important for everyone’s safety that cyclists understand how to safely conduct themselves in a bunch. The two key things to take on board are:

1. You need to get used to riding in close proximity to other cyclists, with people following you closely while you follow someone, and with someone either riding next to you off your right or left shoulder, and

2. rolling forward in a line and doing your share of work at the front of a bunch.

A good bunch will work together with cyclists taking turns at the front. Experienced cyclists working well in a bunch will only take turns at the front for about 10 seconds with someone ‘rolling over’ (or past) them to do their turn. There may be some more experienced cyclists in your bunch who try to organise a bunch they are in this will not only makes things easier, but will make things safer, so please take on board any advice they give. If you get used to bunch riding not only will you enjoy your ride so much more but so will those riding with you!

Below are a series of important points about bunch riding to help you enjoy your cycling season with the Buller Cycling Club:

Don't slam on the brakes! - Try and look ahead as much as possible (just like in a car) and predict when you'll have to slow down and apply the brakes gradually. There are no brake lights on bikes and we don't follow the 2 second rule so you have to help each other out.

Ride directly behind the wheel in front - Try not to overlap the wheel in front or ride too far to one side. If the rider in front has to swerve and your front wheel is over their rear wheel then down goes the bunch.

Keep a close following distance - Start by sitting 60 cm (2 feet) behind the wheel in front and gradually lessen that distance. An experienced rider will be able to sit a few cm (an inch or two) behind the rider in front without too many problems.

Ride consistently - Try and avoid making any sudden movements.When getting out of the seat to climb a hill, don't throw the rear wheel backwards into the rider behind you, or a crash could result.

If you struggle to get to the drink bottle then use a camelback. You'll hydrate much more effectively and be much safer too.

Point out the pot holes - When you see a pot hole, broken glass, or other hazard, warn the cyclists behind you by moving round it and pointing to it.

 

Some Notes on Training

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Training is something that can be done for a number of reasons, varying from just wanting to get a bit fitter, to wanting to win the Source to Sea. It is likely that you will be somewhere in the middle of this spectrum. The following thoughts have been borrowed from numerous sources, and will not apply to everyone, but are intended to give your training a bit of intention and direction.

Spinning - You’ll notice some cyclists talk about cadence and spinning. This refers to the number of pedal revolutions per minute, or cadence. Try to maintain a cadence of 90-100 rpm on flat terrain and don’t let it drop below 75 rpm on hills. A cadence monitor makes this very easy or count for 15 seconds and multiply by four. The rate at which you pedal makes a big difference to the energy you expend while riding.

Smoothly does it - Focus on pedaling as smoothly as possible. To do this concentrate on a few things. Don’t stamp on the pedals; rather push the downward leg through the entire movement and pull with the upward leg. Concentrate on eliminating dead spots of the pedal stroke at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock by imagining your leg kicking outwards at 12 o’clock and wiping your foot at 6 o’clock. Hold your upper body firm with your core (abdominal muscles) as the least amount of upper body movement will produce the best result.

Take it Easy - Build your training up slowly - Just because you’ve got a big ride ahead of you doesn’t mean you should go out and do that distance tomorrow. Increase your distance incrementally by about 10-15% per week. Doing it this way will enable your body to recover and adapt from each training session and thus harness the gains you have made.

Relax! - If you miss a session don’t panic - The best procedure is to take it as an extra rest day and resume the programme the following day. It happens to all of us, sometimes schedules don’t dictate that training will be done on that day, the weather’s abysmal, or you’re just too tired. Relax, and make the most of a bonus day!

 

 

Beginner

Intermediate

Mon

Day Off

Day Off

Tue

1.5hrs (steady, undulating, cadence = 90rpm)

1.5-2hrs (High Intensity—undulating, incl 6 x 5min hard / 5min easy.  Cadence = 90rpm)

Wed

Day Off

Day Off or 1.5hrs (easy, flat, cadence 105rpm)

Thu

Cycle: 1.5-2hrs: Hills, steady, hilly, uphill cadence 75rpm, flat cadence 100rpm

1.5-2hrs: Hill Reps: 4 sets of 10min seated up-hill / ride down for recovery.  Uphill cadence at 75-80rpm

Fri

Day Off

Day Off

Sat

Day Off or 1.5hrs technique work: steady, flat, alternate 10min at 75rpm / 10min at 110rpm

1.5-2hrs technique work: steady, flat, alternate 10min at 70rpm / 10min at 110rpm.  Preferably bunch ride

Sun

2-3hrs Strength/Endurance Session: hill cadence 80rpm, flat cadence 100rpm

3-4hrs Strength/Endurance Session: hill cadence 80rpm, flat cadence 100rpm.  Preferably bunch ride

 

 

 


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General Reminder

Don't forget Tuesday 5.45pm at the Fishing School for another exciting ride ! - Here is a link to Race Information